Southern Cosmopolitan Travels: Richmond

Richmond, Virginia: Too much to do, Too little time!

 

Last week I spent a scant 30 hours in Richmond, Virginia, as a guest of the Tuckahoe Woman’s Club, where I presented a lecture entitled “Southern Style: Town and Country.” This was my second trip to lecture in Richmond, and both times, the short period of time I was there was only enough to tantalize me into wanting much, much more.

 

Jeb Stuart Monument, Monument Avenue

 

During my first visit, lecturing for the RAMA Antiques and Fine Arts show, I stayed at the famous Jefferson Hotel (www.jeffersonhotel.com) which, built in 1895, is a fine Southern hotel in the grand tradition and a cultural and architectural landmark. Even if you don’t stay in this beautiful behemoth of a hotel, be sure to take high tea beneath the Tiffany stained glass rotunda in the Palm Court (Friday-Sunday, 3:00 and 4:15 pm; best to make reservations.)

 

The Jefferson Hotel, Palm Court

 

On my recent stay, I had the pleasure of spending the night at Maury Place, www.mauryplace.com, a luxurious bed and breakfast located in a handsomely appointed historic house. Built in 1915, the house stands on Richmond’s famous Monument Avenue, across from the Maury Monument, which honors the father of modern oceanography and Commander of the Confederate Navy, Matthew Fontaine Maury.

 

Maury Place

 

Maury Monument

 

The Fan District

 

Maury Place is a perfect jumping off point for strolling on Monument Avenue (www.monumenthouse.com/Richmond/monument), walking the streets of the Fan district lined with historic townhouses (www.fandistrict.org), and visiting the nearby Virginia Museum of Fine Arts (www.vmfa.state.va.us).

 

Maury Place, Foyer

 

I fell in love with this B&B for several reasons. Its location is without parallel for exploring historic Richmond, its innkeepers Mac Pence and Jeff Wells are charming and attentive, and, should you ask to meet them, the resident dogs, Chico and Lucy, are delightful. Oh, and did I mention breakfast?

 

Maury Place, Parlor

 

Jeff Wells is the decorator behind the inn’s tasteful, retrained, and inviting decor. The furnishings include a combination of antiques from his family’s home in Norfolk, Virginia, objects he and Mac have collected over the years, and antiques that came with the house when they purchased it (Mac and Jeff are only its 4th owners). Colored primarily in shades of brown and earth tones (inspired by the tresses of their beloved terrier Chico and the Roseville pottery Jeff collects), the style is a bit more masculine and tailored than most B&Bs.

Chico

 

Roseville Pottery in the Library

 

“I didn’t want stereotypical B&B style, which is a little bit more feminine,” says Jeff. “I wanted the look to be tailored, not all velvet and Victoriana. The rooms are gender neutral, or a little bit masculine.” The room where I spend the evening, The Fontaine Suite, was a perfect example of this aesthetic. Decorated in beige, tan, and brown, it featured a pair of Victorian settees upholstered in decidedly un-Victorian fabric. For those who, like me, have inherited one or two of these relics, I recommend taking a look at what Jeff did to give them a crisp, updated look.

 

Updated Victorian Settee

 

The highlight of my trip was a few hours spent with the members of The Tuckahoe Woman’s Club (www.TheTuckahoe.org) in Richmond, Virginia. Founded in 1936, it is one of the most vibrant woman’s clubs in the South, hosting speakers weekly on a wide range of subjects. The club’s 1954 Colonial Revival brick clubhouse, with an auditorium that seats several hundred and a spacious reception room, embodies the classic Southern woman club’s twin commitment to education and community. In addition to being the site for lectures and other member activities, the club and its gardens are also available for wedding receptions and events.

 

Tuckahoe Woman’s Club

 

 

One of the biggest surprises I discovered in Richmond is Agecroft Hall, an astonishing anachronism among the Colonial Revival houses gracing the beautiful Windsor Farms neighborhood where it stands.

 

Agecroft Hall

 

Built in Lancashire, England, in the late 15th century, it was sold at auction in 1925 to Richmond resident Thomas Williams, Jr., who had the Tudor estate moved to the banks of the James River. For information about tours and events, including the Richmond Shakespeare Festival, visit www.agecrofthall.com. Also contact Agecroft Hall for information about the Seven Historic Homes tour (March 23-24). Another reason to visit Richmond and the surrounding area is the Virginia Garden Week tour of houses and gardens, April 20-27 (www.vagardenweek.org), now in its 80th year.

 

Virginia Garden Week

 

Oh, and I almost forgot to tell you something very, very important. When you prepare your walking tour of Richmond, don’t forget to pick up a box lunch from Richmond institution, Sally Bell’s Kitchen (www.sallybellskitchen.com). Since the 1950s, Sally Bell’s has been making delicious box lunches that include a sandwich on a handmade roll (I had chicken salad but they have many choices including cream cheese and olive), a deviled egg with a slice of sweet pickle on top, potato salad, the crispest bite-size cheese wafer, and a little cake to rival anything my grandmother from South Carolina could make…and that’s almost heresy to admit!

 

 

So hurry up and make plans to visit Richmond—it’s gorgeous in the springtime and autumn—be sure to leave enough time to dawdle—and eat a Sally Bell’s box lunch for me!

Joy to the Home

In this season of joy and light, consider giving a beautiful book to someone you love. One of my favorite design books of the year 2012 is The Joy of Decorating: Southern Style with Mrs. Howard by Phoebe Howard (Stewart, Tabori & Chang)–a volume I’m sure will delight those who share my love of  Southern decorating, past and present.

 

 

This recommendation has utterly nothing to do with the fact that I had the pleasure of co-authoring the book and everything to do with the fact that interior decorator Phoebe Howard is delightfully articulate, infectiously in love with her subject matter, inspiring, fun, and gifted. Her very first decorating project (outside of the lovely rooms she has created in her Mrs. Howard stores since 1996) appeared on the cover of House Beautiful, to be followed by countless covers and articles in top decorating magazines.

 

 

“A sea of blue and white embraces you.”

 

Phoebe is a compelling storyteller, and in the introduction she describes her evolution from awkward teenager to full-time mother to a design entrepreneur whose empire includes four Mrs. Howard stores, four Max & Company stores, the Mr. and Mrs. Howard line of furniture, and a thriving  decorating career [for more information and to order the book, visit Mrshoward.com]. The inspiration that launched this journey came from Phoebe’s Aunt Myra, a loving relation who designed an intimate and charming retreat for her teenage niece, teaching her about the healing power of interior design.

 

 

“Make your house an escape from the harsh realities of everyday life.”

 

“I can still close my eyes and recall every detail of that room,” Phoebe writes. “It embraced me and allowed my wounds to heal. When I think back to the impact the room had on me, I realize how powerful our environments can be. They affect us far more profoundly that we realize. In every room I decorate, my goal is to re-create that same sense of inspiration and comfort I felt in that bedroom.”

 

 

“The ability to look at the past with fresh eyes is the secret to timeless style.”

 

Arranged in seven sections with beautiful pictures of rooms decorated by Phoebe (many of them including architectural settings by her husband Jim Howard), she addresses the questions of how to design environments that are Inviting, Inspiring, Timeless, Graceful, Tranquil, Casual, and Comfortable.

 

 

“A graceful room is characterized by the harmonious composition of all its elements.”

 

 

“The best gift you can give yourself is a pocket of tranquility in your busy life.”

 

 

“Inspiration surrounds us all day, every day. You just have to learn to see it”

 

 

“An inviting house embraces you. It’s never intimidating or overdramatic.”

 

These rooms include handsome antiques, contemporary decorative objects, color schemes ranging from the masculine to the feminine, and approaches to style that are both traditional and fresh.

“The contents of the house constantly evoke your interest, inviting questions and engaging you in a never-ending dialogue.”

 

If you love beautiful décor, this is a book to sit back and enjoy. If your passion is decorating, it’s also one to study and learn from. Either way, The Joy of Decorating is a gift that is sure to delight and inspire anyone who receives it.

 

Note: This review by Susan Sully also appears on Ronda Carman’s popular style blog, allthebestblog.co.uk, where you will find any more ideas for holiday giving—to yourself AND others.

Conoisseurshop: Brunk Auctions

 


With Baby Boomers retiring and deaccessioning antiques and heirlooms and Generation X, Y, and Zers decorating in less traditional taste, there seems to be a glut on the market of fine furniture, art, and decorative objéts. All the better for those of us who love such things and are thrilled to have less competition in antiques stores and auction houses … but really, shouldn’t we try to share?

Lauren Brunk

Andrew Brunk

 

According to the Andrew and Lauren Brunk, proprietors of Brunk Auctions [brunkauctions.com], in Asheville, North Carolina, the answer is “Yes.” Targeting a new generation of collectors and auction-goers, they have designed a fresh approach to bringing younger generations back into the fold and onto the bidding floor.

 

 

Now their auction catalogs open with design magazine-style spreads of rooms furnished with objects from upcoming auctions that are handpicked and arranged in fine homes by the region’s top interior designers. “We hope to inspire a younger generation to embrace not only a modern aesthetic, but to mix it with the quality and uniqueness found in antiques,” Lauren writes in the catalog. “In the current design trend, it is no longer ‘out with the old and in with the new.’ All of it is in.”

 

 

 

Asheville-based interior designer Susan Nilsson [susannilsson.com], working with style setter and realty broker Sandy Sellers, created the room designs featured in the first of the redesigned catalogs. Among the featured vignettes are surprising juxtapositions of traditional and contemporary art as well as a gorgeous pairing of 18th and 19th century silver against a darkly stained cypress bookcase.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The built-in bookcase is part of the fine Arts and Craft carpentry of the historic late-19th-century Biltmore Forest residence in which the auction items were displayed. Even the house is available for sale through Sellers at Preferred Properties, (sandysellers@preferredprop.com). Located in historic Biltmore Forest, this French-Norman inspired house was the architectural masterpiece of silversmith William Waldo Dodge. Dodge designed the house for William A. Knight, who was a close friend of the Biltmore Estate’s horticulturalist Chauncey Beadle.

 

 

15 East Forest Road, Biltmore Forest, Asheville

 

Brunk Auctions has also launched a program of Connoisseurs Receptions, wine-and-cheese gatherings during which the auction house’s experts present short talks about featured items in the upcoming sale and discuss how these might fit into modern-day collections and homes. These will take place several days before each auction, helping to educate potential buyers about the furniture, art, jewelry, and decorative objects on the block and to stimulate bidding-fever.

 

 

This solid 18kt gold dressing set was featured during this week’s reception as one of the standout items in the tomorrow’s auction. Designed in the early 20th-century, it features Arts and Crafts Dragestil-style decoration with elaborate Viking imagery, interlaced strapwork designs, and images of dragons and monsters. Estimate $25,000 – $35,000.

 

 

 

 

 

 

While the receptions are fun in themselves (we all actually got the chance to fondle the solid gold powder box), the main point is to encourage new audiences to come to the auctions themselves, where they might stumble across a treasure and experience the thrill of bidding for it. “We want this to be fun and exciting,” says Lauren Brunk. “Life is short—don’t sit at a particle-board desk with a poster on the wall when you can have an antique desk and a real painting for about the same price!”

 

 

 

Although not in the bargain basement category, this carved and inlaid dressing table attributed to the Herter Brothers studio was among the pieces highlighted in this week’s Connoisseurs Reception. Made in the late 1870′s, Lauren explained that it originally would have been at home surrounded by potted palms and all of the business we associate with Victorian interiors. “Flash forward to today’s less cluttered spaces. How amazing to be able to notice the carving of the feet and legs, the ebonized decoration and parcel gilt urn that adorns the stretcher. Given their own space, really fine objects like this one make a statement.”

Two of my favorite affordable finds in the auction are a set of six botanical prints created by 18th-century British artist William Curtis and a small oil on artist board painted with great élan turn of the 20th-century American artist Elliott Daingerfield.

 

 

 

 

Six hand-colored botanical plates, William Curtis, British, 1746-1799, Estimate $1,000 – 1,500

 

 

 

Oil on artist board, Elliott Daingerfield (NY and NC 1859-1932), Estimate $3,000 – 4,000

 

The next auction, taking place on Saturday, September 15th, features pieces from many estates and collections including the Chrysler Museum of Art and the R. J. Reynolds Collection. View a digital catalog on the website, and if you want to get an email when the current catalog is available, just sign up on the home page.

Photos courtesy of Brunk Auctions, Asheville, NC

 

Here Today, Gone Tomorrow

 

 

Dear Readers,

 

I regret to say that my server lost all of the stories posted on my blog after October 2011. I promise to post more, even more beautiful stories to make up for this sad loss.

Yours faithfully,

 

Susan Sully

The Southern Cosmopolitan Shops

 

I recently gave a lecture on my book The Southern Cosmopolitan for the Cincinnati Art & Antiques Festival. Beforehand, I prowled the aisles of the  show with show manager Charlie Miller, scanning for objects expressing the South’s enduring passion for the past, fascination with the foreign, and trend-savvy tastes to include in my lecture. While the region is widely recognized as one beguiled by history, outsiders–and even many Southerners–don’t always think of it as a place with exotic tastes or cutting edge style. That’s why I particularly enjoyed selecting items that illustrate these lesser known aspects of Southern style.

 

Roseate Spoonbill, John Jay Audubon, from Arader Gallery

 

The popularity of the Birds of America engravings by French-American John Jay Audubon (1785-1851) in cultivated homes on both sides of the Atlantic is a perfect example of both  the allure of the exotic and the power of fashion in and beyond the South. Although Audubon created the original drawings for his famous work in America, he had to go to England–where the American birds had New World cachet–to find a market (and an engraver). It was only after they became the height of style in England (even King George IV collected them) that they won popularity back in America, where they soon graced Georgian-style drawing rooms like this one in Charleston, South Carolina, featured in my book Charleston: Architecture and Interiors.

 

Branford-Horry House, Charleston, 1755

 

While living in New Orleans, Louisiana, I encountered this wonderful selection of Audubon engravings in the center hall of a Garden District Greek Revival house featured in The Southern Cosmopolitan.

 

 

 

The Cincinnati Antiques Festival stall of Arader Galleries [www.aradergalleries.com] featured several original engravings from the 1827-38 Havell Edition of Birds of America, including the Roseate Spoonbill above and this wonderfully vibrant Purple Heron with its young. I found myself longing to hang the latter in a room decorated in shades of lapis lazuli and taupe.

 

Purple Heron, John Jay Audubon, from Arader Galleries

 

Although I have yet to encounter Palissy ware in a Southern home, this fanciful French pottery has enjoyed popularity off and on since the 16th century, when it was developed by French Huguenot potter Bernard Palissy. Robust and naturalistic, Palissy’s designs depicted snakes, lizards, fish, crustaceans, and water flora in vibrant color and high relief. The potter’s techniques were lost to the ages, but rediscovered by a new generation of French potters in the 19th century. These exotic, not-for-the-faint-of-heart objects began to grace the mantels and tables of polite society once again, and popularity spread to England, where earthenware pottery was also in fashion. Mintons Ltd launched a line of it at the Great Exhibition of 1851 under the name Palissy ware, which soon became known as Victorian majolica.

 

Platter, c. 1860, Victor Barbizet

 

A Pallisy ware platter like the above by Victor Barbizet (c. 1860) would be right at home in a sugar plantation alongside a steamy Louisiana bayou seething with snakes and turtles–especially if it’s owners were of French descent. It was one of several that held me in thrall when I entered the stall of French dealers Philippe Meunier and Jean Alonso-Defrocourt [contact: majolica75@wanadoo.fr or 917-334-7982].

 

Lizard on a Rock, c. 1860, Joseph Landais

 

This very rare piece by Joseph Landais, measuring 7 x 3-1/2 inches, is small but commanding. Although its style is rustic, its purpose is the same as the more refined figures designed by Sevres, Meissen, Darby, and Chelsea in the eighteenth century, all of which found their way into refined Southern homes.

 

Kandler-Meissen, German 18th century porcelain

 

 

Chelsea, English 18th century porcelain

 

Intended to amuse, and impress even the most jaded 19th-century Southern cosmopolitans, they still have the same power to fascinate and delight today.

Design Destinations: Savannah Style (Part I)

 

I first visited Savannah one April nearly twenty years ago with my husband Thomas for our first wedding anniversary. I still remember waking up and walking through the courtyard of our inn, the Eliza Thompson House [elizathompsonhouse.com]and being charmed by cascades of Lady Banksia roses, the sound of bells, and the scent of spring. About a decade  later, I nestled into the second-floor carriage house apartment of Celia Dunn of Celia Dunn Sotheby’s International Realty [celiadunnsir.com] for two months while researching and directing the photography of my book, Savannah Style: Mystery and Manners. Last week, I spent five days there while scouting and shooting for my new book, Houses with Charm: Simple Southern Style, and found that my passion for the city has only grown with time.

 

Books at The Paris Market on Broughton Street

 

Beautiful, historic, and romantic, Savannah is populated by fascinating (not to mention occasionally eccentric) people and its streets are lined with shops, cafes, and museums to satisfy just about every taste. Upon arriving in Savannah last week, I was honored by a dinner party hosted by Alexandra Trujillo de Taylor, a Savannah tastemaker and designer of interiors, jewelry, and more who goes by the moniker of HRH Duchess of State [duchessofstate.com].

 

 

The party was held at her home near Victory Drive, an avenue lined with massive old oaks and equally majestic Colonial and Mediterranean Revival houses. Having earned her title in recognition of the lavish entertainments she gave when in residence on Savannah’s State Street, the Duchess set a beautiful table with a brilliant late-summer/early autumn burst of sunflowers down its center. While the flowers were arranged in bubble vases complementing the stainless-steel table’s modern style, the meal was served on beautiful antique Delft porcelain.

 

 

The Duchess brought this same blending of post-industrial chic and European elegance to the atelier she designed in the nearby Starland Dairy complex for the gifted chocolatier Adam Turoni [chocolatat.com]. When we visited Adam (a maker of fine wholesale chocolates whose atelier is open by appointment only), he offered me a superlative morsel of chocolate raspberry ganache that made me long for more.

 

 

 

 

After two days photographing the Savannah home of Connecticut-based interior design Lynn Morgan [lynnmorgandesign.com] and her husband Jeff, I took a break to enjoy lunch at the Zeum Cafe in the Jepson Center.

 

 

One of the Telfair museums, the luminous building designed by Moshe Safdie houses a fine collection of contemporary art and international traveling exhibitions. One of the things I love about the Jepson is the juxtaposition of the modern architecture with the old trees, lush greenery, and nineteenth-century architecture of Telfair Square.

 

 

 

 

The day ended with a photoshoot at Arcanum [www.arcanumsavannah.com], one of my favorite shops in the city. There, the Canada-based staff of Dabble magazine [dabblemag.com] set up a portrait of me surrounded with antiques and contemporary objéts, all decked out in jewelry designed by HRH The Duchess of State. Although the photograph won’t be revealed (even to me) until it appears in the online style, food, and travel magazine next year, here are pictures of the semi-precious jewels I purloined for the shoot.

 

 

I enjoyed so many other aesthetic adventures during my scant five days in Savannah that I can’t fit them all into one post … so watch for future Savannah chronicles. In the meantime, keep Savannah on your travel radar. If you haven’t ever been — or haven’t been in a while — it’s time to go.  If you want to join me on a future tour, send me an email  at southerncosmopolitan.com and I’ll keep you posted about my next guided tour of this Southern design destination.

A Classical Journey with Ken Tate Architect

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New Orleans-based architect Ken Tate (kentatearchitect.com) combines a love of traditional architecture with the understanding that a building is not just a place but also a poem–a thing that reveals itself slowly, and in doing so invites those who experience it to experience themselves more deeply as well. I immediately recognized Tate as a kindred spirit when I discovered his work while writing The Southern Cosmopolitan, in which one of his houses is included. I was more than delighted when he returned the favor by asking me to write the introduction to his new book, A Classical  Journey: The Houses of Ken Tate (released this Spring by Images Publishing, imagespublishinggroup.com).

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Combining profiles of nine estates, the book begins with a forward by Tate entitled House as Poem, in which he writes, “All good houses are poems and all good poems convey truth in some manner. Like all good poems, good houses are transcendent. They point to something else–beauty, truth, love, even the divine.”

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However lofty these ideas may sound, I find that they resonate throughout all the houses featured in the book. Perhaps this is because Tate brings an intuitive, emotional, sensuous, and even playful approach to interpreting traditional styles–and asks us to do the same. He does what feels right, even if it means bending the rules and breaking the cannons. In a single house, he might combine elements that span several centuries of style instead of adhering rigidly to one period. This allows him to create a new house that tells an old story about how generations of inhabitants might have lived in it and changed it to suit their tastes or whims. A house Tate designed for a client in Mississippi describes one such narrative.

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Weaving his story, Ken explains: “The original structure was built by Norman French farmers during the late Renaissance…

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Then their eighteenth-century descendants remodeled it in the neoclassical style…

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In the late-nineteenth century, another generation restored the house and its gardens [in the picturesque style of Gertrude Jeckyll]. Once I knew this story, it informed the rest of the design.

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In an estate in the Kentucky horse country, Tate plays tricks with time in a different way. In four different buildings, he explores the different ways the pediment-over-portico form has found expression from its ancient roots through various neoclassical iterations.

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The first building you see when you approach the estate is a Jeffersonian-style house inspired by Palladian architecture. Brick pediments crown the central building and symmetrical wings and a freestanding portico shelters the entrance.

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While this building only hints at the Greek and Roman temples that inspired Andrea Palladio and generations of neoclassical architects, the robust form and proportions of the garden pavilion’s pediment-over-portico offer a much purer expression of classic Roman roots.

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If I had to select my favorite building on the estate, I would choose the folly-like fieldstone barn with a rustic cupola and a classical portico. “I wanted to use the temple form again, but had to find a compatible way to do so with such a lowly structure,” Tate explains. “I found myself thinking of St. Paul’s Covent Garden designed by Inigo Jones. Following his patron the Earl of Bedford’s desire for barn-like simplicity, he designed a massive portico employing Tuscan columns–the lowest and plainest order–to support a pediment with primitive timber outlookers…and boasted that the church was the handsomest barn in England.”

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A Classical Journey goes beyond neoclassical architecture, including houses in a variety of styles including a courtyard dwelling in Jackson, Mississippi, that captures the mystery and rough-hewn craftsmanship of Spanish estancias.

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Another house integrates two styles of architecture–the Norman vernacular of France and the classically inspired design of the Mediterranean villas of Italy and Spain.

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In contrast to the introverted walls and windows of the house’s public face, intended to provide privacy in a tightly-knit suburban streetscape, the rear facade includes a Mediterranean Renaissance-style loggia that reaches out to the landscape and invites it in.

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Throughout the book, Tate combines images of exteriors, interiors, and architectural details that reveal his fascination with and understanding of the language of traditional architecture–the materials, the craftsmanship, the design details, and the way these come together to create something that speaks–like a poem–to the mind, the senses, and the soul.

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A Classical Journey: The Houses of Ken Tate Architect can be found or ordered at your local bookstore, at amazon.com, and other online book resources.

March to Asheville

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If you’re tired of winter’s chill up North, March is the perfect time to head down to Asheville to steal a march on spring. And if spring seems to be coming too-much-too-soon down South (particularly for New Orleaneans, who will be needing fresh air to recover from Mardi Gras and the 85 degree/99 % humidity “spring” weather), Asheville is waiting for you. No matter where you’re coming from, here are my cool picks and hot tips on what to do in Asheville this March.

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Let me begin with a subject near and dear to my heart — the art on display until March 26th at Blue Spiral Gallery (bluespiral1.com) in the annual NewX3 exhibition introducing artists never before shown at the gallery. Naturally, my favorite artist whose work is displayed is my husband Thomas Sully (thomassully.com).

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Sully consciously quotes the dramatic light of late-19th century Luminism and updates aspects of the Romantic sublime, as seen in Elegy (above) and Peach Knob Snag (below), a scene visible from our porch.

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In the Buxton series (below), Sully uses an atmospheric, Tonalist palette to capture the otherworldy variations of texture and color in the maritime forests on the Outer Banks of North Carolina.

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I love walking around the streets of downtown Asheville at night, particularly the always-hopping sidewalks of Lexington Avenue, Wall Street, and Battery Park (many of Asheville’s founding fathers came from New York City) where a diversity of delicious food is available at great restaurants by night and a collection of locally-owned boutiques (there is only one chain store downtown) open by day. Perhaps my favorite place to enjoy a stroll is the Grove Arcade on Battery Battery Park at Page Street (grovearcade.com).

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Two of my favorite Grove Arcade restaurants, both of which offer sidewalk dining for lunch and dinner, are Modesto (modestonc.com) and Chorizo (828-350-1332). After dinner, stop into the Battery Park Book Exchange (batteryparkbookexchange.com) in a corner of the arcade to browse through thousands of used and rare books in fifteen categories. Comfortable leather chairs invite relaxed perusing and on Friday and Saturday night, Classical guitar stylist James Barr (jamesbarrproductions.com) plays accoustic guitar in a range of genres from Bach and Broadway to the Beatles.

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Barr’s music is accompanied by champagne, sparkling wines, and fine wines from the Champagne Bar located in the bookstore. Please note that Barr is available for weddings and private parties (he played at Life magazine’s 50th anniversary bash in Radio City Music Hall!). Believe me, there is nothing like this experience for oenophiles, bibliophiles, and guitar-ophiles anywhere else in the nation. Trust Asheville to come up with another original idea. One of my favorite bumper stickers here exhorts readers to Keep Asheville Weird.

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Before dinner, or better yet, during your afternoon perambulation, go inside the Grove Arcade–a dizzying two-story atrium with spiral stairs leading to a mezzanine level, the total effect of which reminds me of a diminutive Grand Central Station…without the trains, of course. There are wonderful shops in the Great Hall selling anything from locally spun yarns and Blue Ridge Mountains crafts to couture clothing and shoes at The Jazzy Giraffe (thejazzygiraffe.com).

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It’s hard to list all the places to visit when you come to Asheville, but these are a few of my favorite downtown picks. One of the things that makes Asheville so great to visit and to live in is its vibrant downtown of restored buildings that recall the city’s history–particularly its zenith as a Jazz Age destination, as demonstrated by a dazzling array of Art Deco architecture. So, please take my advice and head for the hills this spring!

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And if you’re looking for a tour guide for your group–let me know. I might just be available!

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Connoisseurshop: Arcanum

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I recently visited Savannah after finishing a photo-shoot on nearby Spring Island for the book I am co-authoring with architect Jim Strickland and his firm Historical Concepts (www.historicalconcepts.com) entitled Architecture of Place. On a steamy Indian Summer day, graphic designer Eric Mueller and I took to the streets of Savannah for a whirlwind visit. Our first stop was Arcanum (912-236-6000), a decorative arts shop (featured in August’s Southern Living) filled choc-a-bloc with antique and modern furniture and accessories.

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The shop, run by Phillip Hunter and Sim Harvey, instantly stimulates the desire to decorate, whether on a grand scale or a tabletop one. Fortunately, Sim and Phillip are on-hand to offer a full range of decorating services. For those seeking to freshen up their tablescapes, contemporary bubble vases and traditional julep cups provide the perfect items for a “something old, something new” approach to accessorizing.

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If you’re looking for a chic piece of furniture to add a touch of sophistication to your interior, Phillip and Sim recommend a martini table just large enough to hold two cocktails. The shop offers a selection of these, including one designed by Phillip featuring a Greek key motif in a modern mode.

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On the massive end of the scale, a Directoire armoire promises to add style and storage to any room.

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Eric’s pick of the inventory was a pair of 16th century drawings boasting the largest price tag in the store.

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My choice was perhaps the most eccentric item in the shop–an ivory knife with a fox paw handle both creepy and fabulous at the same time. Please don’t spray paint my faux-fur coat PETA…this implement was made a long time ago. And I didn’t actually buy it.

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knife-paw

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Whether your tastes run from the antique to the au courant and your budget from the petite to the grand, Arcanum has everything you need to satisfy your decorative taste. So head to Savannah and start shopping!

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gryphon

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Coming next…a tour of Savannah College of Art and Design buildings in Savannah–a study in creative and successful architectural repurposing.

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The Southern Cosmopolitan Travels

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Join me as I travel to East Hampton, New York, for an exhibition of Dominy furniture  and a Southern expatriate supper

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I recently spent the weekend at the East Hampton home of voracious and omnivorous collectors Glenn Purcell and Charles Keller. During the last several years, they have developed an obsession with furniture made in the 18th- and 19th centuries by East Hampton’s  Dominy family of cabinetmakers. While their late 19th-century Shingle Style house is usually filled with chairs, stands, and a dining room table made by the family, at the time of my visit the furniture had relocated to the East Hampton Historical Society’s Clinton Academy Museum (easthamptonhistory.org) for an exhibition entitled Dominy: The Federal and Empire Periods, 1790-1840, New Discoveries.

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Open from May 29th through June 27th, the exhibition was co-curated by Glenn and Charles and has already won the attention of The New York Times.  Arranged against a backdrop of  banners printed with pages from the hand-written Dominy ledgers, chairs, stands, beds, tables, mirrors and clocks demonstrate the family’s refined, and often restrained, approach to Federal and Empire styles.

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The exhibition reflects the co-curators’ relentless pursuit of the Dominy family’s handiwork, often guided by ledgers that indicate names of buyers, the descendants of whom often still own the pieces. Having developed a connoisseur’s eye for the furniture, Glenn and Charles also hunted pieces down in the homes of unsuspecting owners, in Long Island antiques stores, and even in a local yard sale (East Hampton yard sales are different).

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In between trips to the museum to install the exhibition during my weekend visit, Glenn and Charles took time to host a Southern expatriate style dinner (Glenn grew up in Newnan, Georgia, not far from my mother’s hometown of Milledgeville). While Glenn gave me a tour of East Hampton houses, Charles and my graphic designer Eric Mueller (who has ties to Tennessee) set a gorgeous table complete with plates ringed with the names of the thirteen colonies.

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On the rims of these plates, reproductions of those used by George and Martha Washington’s family, Georgia sits right next to New Hampshire. Late 19th-century wine glasses of glittering cut glass–a favorite element in Southern table settings–share the tablecloth with 1920s Murano glasses that bespeak Northern sophistication.

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In a second table setting (below)–so much to play with in these collectors’ house–Charles swapped the thirteen colonies plates for simple wedding band china, beloved in both the North and South. This table setting could have been at home anywhere up and down the Eastern seaboard, a fact which reveals a simple truth about historic Northern and Southern styles: they have more in common than you might think.

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I recently had a meeting with my editor at Rizzoli to discuss the contents of my next book, Houses with Charm: Simple Southern Style. She kept asking me, “What makes this Southern?” I explained that while there are definite distinctions between the architecture of the two regions, the decorative arts of the South and the North have much more in common. What makes them different, perhaps, is the way we use them.

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For example, the Southerner’s idea of perfection is thinly sliced Virginia ham served up with Henry Bain sauce, a Louisville, Kentucky favorite from the Pendennis Club. A bit like A-1 sauce, it is made with a base of English mango chutney (a reminder of the South’s Anglo-colonial roots) and sparked with a dash of Tabasco. While Southerners would choose iced tea with fresh mint as the ideal accompaniment for a salty ham luncheon, my Northern hosts preferred a rose sparkling wine in mid-20th century Murano glasses. But we all agreed that fresh peaches would be an ideal counterpoint–and table decoration–for a casual outdoor luncheon.  Cheers!

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