The Southern Cosmopolitan Travels

I recently had the pleasure of staying in two of the most historic inns in the Blue Ridge Mountains –the Eseeola Lodge in Linville, North Carolina, and the High Hampton Inn in Cashiers, North Carolina. 

Eseeola Lodge . . .

The Eseeola Lodge

The Eseeola Lodge

 

The Eseeola Lodge (http://eeseola.com) was built in 1892, four years after the wives of Linville’s developers convinced their husbands to create a resort instead a timber and mining town. Designed to capture the imaginations of mountain-going tourists, the lodge was built in a picturesque style using shingles made from chestnut bark.

 

Timber-pole balcony at The Eseeola

Timber-pole balcony at The Eseeola

 

Although the original building burned in 1936, the present-day lodge is located in an annex built before the fire.  Also covered in chestnut bark shingles, it features balconies made from unmilled timber poles and a huge stacked stone fireplace that retain the picturesque ambiance of the original structure. 

 

The Eseeola's lobby

The Eseeola's lobby

 

When it was built in 1929, the annex housed only a double row of guest rooms. Since then, it has been substantially expanded to include a large living room and restaurant where guests gather and dine in a style where elegance and luxury meet rustic charm.

 

The bar at Eseeola Lodge

The bar at Eseeola Lodge

 

High Hampton Inn . . .

 

Twilight at High Hampton Inn

Twilight at High Hampton Inn

 

Civil War general, South Carolina governer, and US Senator Wade Hampton began summering in the Blue Ridge Mountains in 1800. Wade’s sister Caroline dubbed the hilltop property High Hampton, and in 1922, the McKee family purchased the hunting lodge and outbuildings, turning them into an inn (http://highhamptoninn.com) where generations of Southerners have summered ever since.

 

The terrace at High Hampton Inn

The terrace at High Hampton Inn

 

While the rooms and cottages are cozy and cool (air-conditioning is unnecessary, but wood-burning fireplaces offer welcome warmth on mountain nights), outdoor pleasures are high on the agenda. Those not inclined to fish or canoe can just sit on the terrace and gaze upon the sublime beauty of Rock Mountain. 

 

The lobby at High Hampton Inn

The lobby at High Hampton Inn

 

Popular with families, High Hampton Inn has a huge lobby surrounding a stacked stone fireplace where bridge, backgammon, and book-reading are favorite indoor pursuits. Like the Eseeola, this inn burned in the 1930s. Despite the fact that there was a Depression going it, it was immediately rebuilt on the original location using the same local materials: pine, hickory, and wormy chestnut.

 

Front desk at High Hampton Inn

Front desk at High Hampton Inn

 

So . . . don’t forget to check in and check out the Southern comfort — and traditional architecture — of these historic inns. Whether it’s spring, summer, fall, or winter, these lodges will surround you with old-fashioned charm and natural beauty.

Connoisseur-Shop

An inside look at why antiques dealers love the things they love
and what they like to do with them
Ann Koerner Antiques, New Orleans
19th-c French bench and African rug

19th-c French bench and African rug

                                                                         
What I love most about Ann Koerner Antiques (4021 Magazine Street, New Orleans, http://annkoerner.com), other than the updated Gustavian decor, is Ann’s skill at creating unexpected yet entirely harmoneous collages of art, furniture, and decorative objects. Rooted in history, inclusive, and surprising, her selections perfectly express Southern Cosmopolitan style. 

Written about in House Beautiful, Southern Accents, The New York Times, and other publications, Ann shares the secrets of her approach to collecting and decorating with you here:

 

koerner-chair-detail“I always go for the really fine, extraordinary pieces like this 18th century Italian arm chair. The carving is a flawless expression of the time and place this piece represents. I also like the fact that this is the original finish. It looks old. If you leave the finish alone–and even the upholstery, if possible–the true quality of the piece comes through so beautifully.

 

koerner-shop-chairs2This 18th century Swedish cabinet has very fine, champfered paneling. Its size, the texture of its worn paint, and detail gives it a lot of presence in any room. The chairs (also Swedish) are rococo in style, with beautifully carved cabriole legs. I love the color and texture of the old leather seats and painted wood. They go so beautifully against the pale gray cabinet.

 

koerner-shop-window-resizedThe  iron-frame orangerie window (French, 19th century) is one of a pair. I mirrored the other one with silver leaf. The 20th-century Lucite chair has wonderful, true lines, which is why it can mix well with pieces from another period. I love putting modern pieces with very simple lines next to older ones. Clear pieces like these play beautifully with the light–and almost disappear.

                                                        

18th c. Swedish cupboard & English regency chair

The experience of shopping at Ann Koerner Antiques is not just an acquisitive one, but an inspirational one as well. Even if you’re “Just looking…”, you’ll go home and look at your own surroundings in a new way.
 

                  

Ann Koerner at home                                 
 
Swedish cabinet & Balinese table in Ann's house

Swedish cabinet & Balinese table in Ann's house

 
Ann, who is also an interior decorator, expresses this open-ended aesthetic in her nearby house, featured in The Southern Cosmopolitan. In the living room, a Swedish cabinet, Balinese table, and 20th century American painting create a dynamic yet serene composition. 
21st c. Italian glass & 19th c. chairs chez Ann

21st c. Italian glass & 19th c. chairs chez Ann

In the dining room, bold contemporary Italian glass contrasts with delicate 19th c. American chairs. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Southern Cosmopolitan Garden Party

cosmopolitan_thumbnailBeing a Southern Cosmopolitan (or a Cosmopolite Southernista, which I was delighted to be dubbed by Veranda magazine in their July/August book pages) is not only about decorating with style. It is also about living with charm, elegance, a lot of individuality, and a little bit of humor. To celebrate the launch of this online style diary (I refuse to call it a blog–it’s just too ugly a word), I’m inviting you to attend (in the virtual manner) several parties exuding Southern Cosmopolitan style.

First, join me for an extravagant garden party in New Orleans’ garden district. With guests arrayed in proper garden party attire (airy dunbar-est-in-hats2frocks and shady chapeaux for the ladies, seersucker suits and straw hats for the men), the party was thrown by one of the city’s most extraordinary hostesses (who wishes to remain anonymous). Move over Dorothy Draper, stylemaker and author of the 1941 classic, Entertaining is Fun: How to be a Popular Hostess (rizzoliusa.com). Be sure to read this book if you want to overcome The Will to Be Dreary (p. 5) by hosting elegant yet economical entertainments.

dunbar-invitation-alligator

Knowing that the New Orleans I explore in my new book The Southern Cosmopolitan combines classic style with Creole spice, the hostess selected an invitation with a tropical theme from Scriptura, a Magazine Street stationers (scriptura.com). With windtorn banana leaves and an ever-so-slightly sinister alligator, it suggests that this might not be your average garden party.

The correct hat is essential to dressing like a Southern Cosmopolitan. When Eric Mueller (designer of this website and my books) arrived indunbar-eric-at-hatman1 New Orleans for the party, I took him straight to Meyer the Hatter–which, in operation for 63 years, is the city’s oldest hatshop. After trying on a dozen Panama straw hats, from the genteel to the sharpster, Eric selected a hybrid of the two extremes perfect both for the party and his life back home in New York City and Long Island (meyerthehatter.com).

My Ascot style hat (and dress, as well) came from Yvonne LaFleur (yvonnelafleur.com), a deliciously old Paris style boutique in New Orleans’ Carrollton neighborhood.

dunbar-flower-arrangement

The hostess created jungle-madness centerpieces by anchoring dramatic arrangements of tropical foliage and flowers with natural sea sponges set in the tops of tall vases.

Eric Mueller, (contributor to Drinkology Eats: A Guide to Bar Food and Cocktail Party Fare) helped concoct a signature cocktail for the book parties called–what else?–The Southern Cosmopolitan. Pictured below, it is the velvety peach colored elixir in martini glasses. Everyone who tastes this dangerously drinkable cocktail asks for the recipe, so here it is.

For 1 Southern Cosmopolitan:

dunbar-cosmos

3 sprigs of fragrant mint

1-1/2 oz peach infused vodka

1/2 oz Cointreau or other orange liqueur

1 oz peach nectar

1/4 oz fresh lime juice

Rim a chilled martini glass with a mint leaf. Muddle the mint sprigs in a cocktail shaker. Add the remaining ingredients, shake with ice, and strain into the glass. For a virgin version called the Southern Peach, omit the alcoholic ingredients, shake the mint, peach nectar, and lime juice with ice, and strain into a Tom Collins glass, topping off with seltzer. A word of warning: peach vodka and peach nectar can be hard to find, so order ahead of time.

 

dunbar-cutting-cake1This delightful garden party peaked with the presentation of a cake decorated with the cover of my book (printed in edible inks on rice paper by Haydel’s Bakery, haydelsbakery.com) flanked by macaroon trees. Tempting towers of colorful meringue-based cookies, these Parisian style confections were made by Sucre on Magazine Street in New Orleans (shopsucre.com).

 

My only regret at the end of the day was that I didn’t eat more of the strawberry, lemon, orange, and pistachio dunbar-meringes1meringues. Expecting them to taste like styrofoam (how could something that insanely perky looking actually taste good, too?), I did not discover how delectable they were until the end of the party. Since I couldn’t figure out how to sneak one of the trees home without anyone noticing, I had to make do with just a few unforgettable bites–the perfect sweet ending to a divine afternoon.

The Southern Cosmopolitan:

scosmo_thumbnailThe Southern Cosmopolitan (Rizzoli: April ’09) takes a fresh look at styles shaping the South’s architecture and interior design today. A selection of luxurious houses from Charleston, Savannah, New Orleans, Atlanta, Natchez, Alexandria, and beyond celebrates the sophisticated side of Southern style with a mix of modern art, cherished antiques, and exotic textiles. Featured in tantalizing color photographs are select private residences decorated by leading tastemakers, including Thomas Jayne, Amelia Handegan, Nancy Braithwaite, and Hal Williamson.

An immaculately restored mansion in Natchez and a collector’s treasure trove in Alexandria reveal the South’s love affair with historic European and American architecture, art, and antiques. A classic re-do of a Colonial Revival home near Washington, DC and a modern Atlanta condominium decorated with French antiques and contemporary art reveal the ease with which Southerners blend the old and the new. A Greek Revival house in Charleston filled with an international collection of textiles and an Italianate townhouse in Savannah decorated in opulent Venetian style display the South’s fascination with global tastes. This inspiring book is perfect for those who aspire to the essence of Southern style. click here to order from amazon.